Exclusive Interview With Designer -SEBASTIAAN PIETER GROENEN

Frankly speaking,

The graduation series is not one of the most eye-catching and most noticeable works of the year. His concise design will even be overlooked in dozens of graduating series. However, when you look carefully, you will find his mind in every work. The series is based on the level of rock and crystal when you extract the crystal. Those undecorated clothes are directly dissected in the traditional suit, revealing the inner level in the most primitive way. I particularly like the backing of the plucent material in the series. This fully balances the little restraint that the suit has had, so that he can introduce himself to us as the champion of this year's London College of Fashion.

Can you introduce yourself and tell us your background?

I grew up near Amsterdam in Holland. I came to London five years ago to start a fashion course. I first took Foundation Degree at Central St Martins and then studied Bespoke Tailoring at London College of Fashion. During the summer vacation I worked in the same company as an internship to deepen my understanding of the industry. My first internship was a brand of women's clothing from New York, known as Tucker, and let me understand the operation of a brand in a full range.

I am also honored to work with companies that I admire, such as Fantastic Man, Monocle and Jil Sander. I am also trying to keep in touch with them. These experiences will help guide me to shape my design style and choose the masses that I want to attract.

How do you normally start your series? What inspires you most?

I started with books and pictures on the Internet. I collected a lot and made my own arrangements at the same time. Taking my graduation works as an example, I refer to crystal stone, box shaped buildings, and Helmut Lang's past form. I also get the feeling of pedestrians' clothing in the street, such as how they match and how to express themselves through clothing.

What will you consider first in the design process? Are lines, colors and patterns, or materials?

I want to

I like to question what we wear. We are like advertising boards for clothes because they often give voice to our identity and lifestyle. I think this is a very interesting plot.

The cloth I chose for my graduation series has long been decided.

The textile is used to match the technology of bespoke tailoring, but I also spend a lot of time searching for suitable colors and weights to match the message I want to convey.

Why do you choose to take the Bespoke tailoring course? How do you feel about your study and life?

I choose this course because I want to make sure that I have learned a skill. Many of my friends are disappointed with the structure of their choice without contacting the clothes. I can now make a customized suit by myself. I think it is very beneficial (though I admit that my quality is not as good as that of Savile Row).

What do you think of the development of men's clothing in five years?

Men's clothes are usually made up of a set of clothes (such as suits / Jeans, /t-shirt, etc.). I believe that there will not be much change in five years, but they start to use 3D printing technology. I think we will see changes in the structure of clothes after new technology. I also think that the way we touch customers will change because of the development of science and technology, and there are many different opportunities on the Internet, and I think we have not yet reached its peak.

Can you tell us about your series? What is the biggest problem encountered in the design process?

As I have said before, I refer to crystal stones and box shaped buildings. I hope the contrast between outside and inside will show the relationship between works and them, which will be pformed into the modified surface and the part of the suit that I cut and exposed, plus a layer of strong dynamic silk material to create a contrast effect between rigid and soft.

The biggest challenge is for me to integrate my ideas into the traditional suits that I have learned in the course. Those parts that should have been exposed in my coat have puzzled my teacher. They taught us to collect details to make the work look perfect. But I am showing the untouched edges and roughness. My challenge is to control and make them look like they are not made of mistakes.

Is there any new designer you particularly want to work with?

I really appreciate the rapid development of J.W. Anderson in recent years and his determination to challenge the public's attitude towards men's clothing. I also appreciate Meadham Kirschoff. I think they have unique tentacles in men's and women's clothing and make their works very refreshing.

As a graduate of LCF, what advice do you have for fashion students nowadays?

It's very simple, but keep an open mind, because sometimes you can finish what you have been afraid of.

What is the next step?

I hope to absorb experience from a mature company in the men's wear design department, but I also hope to continue developing my own series and create my own brand in a few years.